ONE of the food world’s most sought after delicacies, the humble truffle, is gaining popularity in the Tarago area, just 37 kms south of Goulburn and some 50 minutes north of the Canberra CBD.
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There are many different varieties of truffle grown all over the world, even a very rare white truffle variety in Italy, but the most common species grown in Australia is known as the French Black or Perigord truffle (Tuber melanosporum), which is primarily grown in Europe.
The truffle has more recently started to be cultivated in Australia, New Zealand and now Chile.
Truffle growing first started in the Southern Hemisphere in the late 1980s in New Zealand as a government initiative, and then quickly spread to Tasmania and then onto the Australian mainland.
Goulburn Mulwaree Councillor, Denzil Sturgiss and his wife Anne grow truffles through their business Tarago Truffles at their property ‘Gap Hill’ approximately 3kms south of Tarago.
However truffle growing is not just restricted to the Southern Tablelands. Truffle farms are spread as far north as the Southern Highlands, south down to the Snowy Mountains and even as far west as Blayney and Orange.
“I’m actually heading up to Blayney today (July 6) to go on a truffle hunt up there, as there is an excellent trufferie up there that’s well maintained,” Cr Sturgiss said.
“Also one of our biggest days of the year is the ‘Blessing of the Truffle Dogs’, which normally occurs on the weekend after the June long weekend.
This blessing is usually conducted by ex-Bishop of the Armed Forces, the Reverend Tom Frame, who does a wonderful job.
At the event held a couple of weeks ago we had upwards of 74 people attend this blessing, which is great.”
Tarago Truffles was established back in 2002, when Cr Sturgiss started planting varieties of oak tree to get truffle production underway.
“We planted our first hectare on November 29, 2002 and the next year we planted two more hectares,” he said.
“Then in 2008 and 2009 we planted another six hectares, so we’ve been in it for a while now.”
Altogether the farm stretches over nine hectares with over 4,300 trees planted.
“Truffles are certainly a beautiful product and are wonderful to eat as a food enhancer,” Mr Sturgiss said.
“The dollars and cents side is also a big attraction, as a decent sized truffle can cost upwards of $100 or more.”
Mr Sturgiss’ wife Anne explained what it was about truffles that appealed to her.
“There’s definitely a ‘mystique’ about the truffle that appeals to me and I like most of the people who are involved in the industry,” she said.
“Its given us the opportunity to meet new people and strike up new friendships, which has been great.
We also conduct regular truffle hunts here at Tarago Truffles and I love meeting the people who come and want to find out what it’s all about, especially families and young kids.”
Their dogs Utah, Lily and Dusty are also a vital part of the team, as they sniff out the best locations around the farm for the best truffle.
The ‘truffle hunts’ are held every Saturday during the season with interest from all ages,ranging from small kids through to over 65s.
Hunts normally cost $65 per person, which includes one to one and a half hours following the truffle harvesters and the dogs, and the opportunity to get down and dirty and help to dig for truffles.
“The youngsters and nearly everybody love doing that part!” Mrs Sturgiss joked.
“Then they come down to what we call the ‘Truffle Shed’ and I show them how to clean and grade the truffle, and then we sit down together and have some homemade soups and crusty bread with truffle butter, and shave some fresh truffle over the top of the soup and generally just have a bit of a yarn.”
Tarago Truffles is a supplier to Berry restaurant Silos, run by former chef at Quay Restaurant and Tetsuyas in Sydney, Nick Gardiner.
Silos is becoming a well known venue for diners up and down the South Coast.
“‘I’m posting out to him this afternoon as a matter of fact,” Mrs Sturgiss said.
“At the moment I’ve also got some people interested at the Bambini Trust in Elizabeth St in Sydney’s CBD, as well as Wine Nomad at Surry Hills.
They attract what I call the young, upwardly mobile and ‘cashed up’ customers, and so we’re getting good responses from them.”
They also sell to what they call ‘private foodies’ and process online orders as well.
“We also try and sell to the fresh food places like the Farmers Markets at Exhibition Park in Canberra (EPIC) when possible,” she said.
“And we also back-up other people who might be running short of truffles, so we go through a few distributors.”
Tarago Truffles are just one of a number of trufferies who are taking part in the Canberra Region Truffle Festival, which officially started on June 21 and will be running through until early August.
Other trufferies include Richard Hill from Marcenmist Black Truffles and Wine at Bredbo, and Damian Robertson from Turalla Truffles at Bungendore.
There are a number of events which will be held throughout the Truffle Festival The first event is the ‘Truffles at the Market’ initiative, with fresh black truffles being sold at both the Fyshwick Fresh Food Markets and the Canberra Region Farmers Market throughout the season.
A series of ‘truffle dinners’ will also be held at a few venues around the Capital Region.
The first will be at Chifley’s Bar and Grill on July 9, where guests will be treated to a six course degustation menu with matching wines.
Executive Chef at Chifley’s Bar & Grill, Michael Chatto uses truffles throughout the year from Europe in anticipation for the Canberra season to kick in.
Chifleys will also be running daily specials with truffles alongside their usual menu, with the option to add truffle to any dish for an extra charge.
Also on July 9, there will be a Verve Cliquot Truffle Dinner held at the Hyatt Hotel Canberra, with a six course meal and Verve Cliquot champagnes provided.
The final event will be a Truffle Degustation Event at Boathouse by the Lake in Barton, ACT on July 11, consisting of five courses plus arrival canapes and matching wines.
A series of ‘hands-on’ cooking classes and dinners are also being held, with the next one to be held on Saturday, July 11 & 18 at Canberra cooking school Foodish.
During the classes, participants work together to create a spectacular three-course meal incorporating truffles and then get to sit down and enjoy their ‘truffled feast.’
At the Fyshwick Markets ‘3 Seeds’ stall on July 10th and 16th, there will be a ‘Kids Holiday Pasta with Truffles’ event, where kids can enjoy making their own fresh pasta with truffles.
To find out more about the Canberra Region Truffle Festival, contact Festival Manager Julia Brown on 0422 655 999 or email her at julia@trufflefestival.com.au.
You can also visit the festival website at www.trufflefestival.com.au.